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The strange burial customs of Trunyan Village

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Hidden along the quiet eastern shore of Lake Batur in Bali lies Trunyan Village , a place unlike anywhere else on the earth. This peaceful village sits between the sparkling lake and the towering Mount Batur volcano. But what truly makes Trunyan special isn’t just its beautiful surroundings, it's the ancient culture and traditions that live on here.

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Trunyan is home to the Bali Aga people, the island’s original inhabitants. The people of Trunyan continue to follow customs that are over a thousand years old. These traditions, passed down through generations, are deeply spiritual, mysterious, and deeply connected to nature. Reaching Trunyan is an adventure in itself. The journey starts on a beautiful drive up to the Kintamani highlands. From Ubud, Seminyak, or Kuta, popular towns, it is a two-hour drive by car. The last leg is by boat to ride across Lake Batur from a village named Songan in order to arrive at Trunyan.

A Cemetery Unlike Any OtherWhat really distinguishes Trunyan from other Balinese communities is its special funeral practice, which is called Mepasah. Rather than burying or cremating dead bodies as other people do, the Bali Aga place their deceased on the earth smoothly at a holy location commonly referred to as " Skull Island ." Each corpse is swathed in white cloth and covered by a simple bamboo basket to shield it from wildlife. What's amazing is that the corpses are not buried but there is no foul odor. That's due to the Taru Menyan tree , an ancient, revered tree with a natural odor absorbing quality. Indeed, the name "Taru Menyan" literally translates as "fragrant tree" in the local tongue. There are 11 bodies in the cemetery at a time, and they can only accept married adults or children who have lost all their baby teeth. When they need to add a new body, they take out the oldest one and put its skull on a stone platform.

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Local legend claims that the village was established when a Javanese prince tracked a weird, sweet odor all the way to Bali. That aroma belonged to the mystical Taru Menyan tree, which he discovered beside the lake. So smitten was the prince with the location that he made it his home and became Trunyan's first king. Trunyan also possesses a special caste system, and certain young men swear to poverty. Such men live humbly as beggars in lowland villages prior to returning home to marry and raise a family. This strange custom is intended to instill humility and respect for tradition. One of the most interesting cultural festivals is the Brutuk Dance, which is danced only by unmarried men. They have to undergo spiritual purification and wear banana-leaf skirts and sacred masks before they can dance.

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Now, Trunyan receives visitors as curiosity invites travel. You can stroll through the village, study about the ancient customs of the Bali Aga, and even go to Skull Island. Women are permitted to enter the cemetery except during funerals. Local guides exist and are highly beneficial. They will tell you what you are seeing, recount tales handed down over generations. Trunyan is not a tourist hub with beach clubs or Instagram cafes. Trunyan presents a glimpse of a Bali that most visitors never get to experience. If you want to experience the ancient soul of Bali, a visit to Trunyan Village is an experience you will never forget. It's peaceful, it's holy, and it's like entering a page of history.
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